Nanjing Brocade skills: the tradition of Chinese royal weaving continues

【Reason for Selection】 Nanjing Brocade Skill has a history of more than 1500 years. It is the only traditional handicrafts that has been handed down in the history of more than 3,000 years in China and can not be replaced by modern machines. Nanjing Brocade skill creation process has always been parallel with the historical process of Chinese civilization, embodies the degree of development and diversity of ancient Chinese civilization, shows the high degree of wisdom of ancient artisans. [Nanjing Brocade skills] Nanjing brocade skills survive the tradition of Chinese weaving, which uses the "through the broken weft," "dug platen" and other core technologies in the construction of large loom complex, up and down by two manual operation, with Silk lines, gold lines and peacock feather lines and other materials such as robe robes and other royal clothing, including luxury fabrics. This technique is mainly stored in Nanjing, Jiangsu Province, China. The weaving method encompasses more than 120 processes, including many processes in making machines, designing crafts, picking flowers and weaving. It is the testimony of extraordinary human creativity and the highest level of human brocade skill representative. December 30, 2009, Nanjing Brocade skills by UNESCO included in the "List of Representatives of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Mankind." Jiangning weaving was abolished in the thirty years of the Guangxu reign "to section Mi Mi", experienced the Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties three historical era, up to 620 years of Jiangning official office weaving from the end; after the founding of New China, Nanjing Brocade newborn China is mulberry The birthplace of silk has so far reached more than seven thousand years of history, which has had a profound impact on human civilization. The Zhou Dynasty (1066 BC to 771 BC) colorful brocade fabrics have appeared. Spring and Autumn and Warring States Period (403 BC to 221 BC) when the production and sales of brocade flourishing. Northern and Southern Dynasties (AD 420-589) period, skilled craftsmen to improve tapestry machinery, innovation weaving process, improve the brocade grade and output. In the early years of the Eastern Jin Dynasty in the fifth century AD, Nanjing had a specialized agency for the production of Brocade. According to historical records, all generations of the Southern Dynasties have established less government in the central government agencies. They have established horizontal ordinances to control the dyed cloth. Nanjin Qi Jin workers have become famous in the world. The Southern "Yin Yun novel" records: "The east of the Milky Way has a weaver, the son of Emperor, also every year machine 杼 servitude, weaving Yunjin Tianyi." The author tells the story of the human clever clever skill, which is Brocade First appeared in the literature. After the Sui and Jun Dynasties' late years, the political and economic status of Jinling (Nanjing) was repeatedly degraded and reduced to ordinary counties. The Tang Dynasty continued the policy of suppressing Jinling in the Sui Dynasty, and relocated the capital of Yangzhou from the Jinling to Jiangdu. There were also thousands of inhabitants moved along with it, including silk workers. At the end of the Tang Dynasty and the Five Dynasties, Yangzhou was repeatedly war-torn and its economic center of gravity gradually shifted to Jinling as the "West Capital." To the Southern Tang Dynasty to Jinling for the capital, the rulers vigorously reward Nong Sang, Jinling once again become one of the centers of Jiangnan silk industry, and set up official business weaving, Yangzhou brocade artisans also followed the move to the south. In the Northern Song Dynasty, the government attached great importance to the political and economic status of Jinling. The number of high-quality silk products that tribute went to each year reached tens of thousands. After Song dynasty moved south, the focus of silk production in China shifted to Jiangnan, especially in Nanjing. Nanjing Brocade production in the Yuan Dynasty is mainly carried out under the auspices of official weaving institutions, management. The official office of the Weaving and Textile Organization, set up in Nanjing in the Yuan Dynasty, was called Dong-wei Textile Bureau and Xi-wei Textile Bureau. During the nearly 100 years of the rule of Yuan Dynasty, the scale of Jiankang Bureau of Development was growing day by day, laying a good foundation for the subsequent development of Nanjing Silk Technology. The Ming Dynasty official business weaving, business units as many, the distribution of a wide area, a large scale, is unprecedented, but the focus of operations in Jiangnan, and Nanjing, Suzhou, Hangzhou focus. The official operation of the Qing Dynasty weaving, only in the capital city of Beijing and Jiangnan Jiangning (Nanjing), Suzhou, Hangzhou everywhere set up the bureau. Guangxu "case of the Qing dynasty," the "housekeeping possession" records: "Shunzhi early years set, the Queen's dress, and four o'clock clothes, the palace and the princess princess dresses clothes, according to Li ceremony, handed over to Jiangning, Suzhou, Hangzhou three Department weaving Christine. "Nanjing Jiangning set up a special" Weaving House ", is responsible for the supply of the Qing Dynasty Yunfu makeup flower fabric series and robes, clothes and other clothing. Yuan Ming and Qing Dynasties Nanjing Brocade history is based on the official business weaving as the main line of history, to the Qing Dynasty Kangxi, Jiaqing years, Nanjing City Brocade wood loom reached more than 30,000 units, more than 200,000 people as an industry, with an annual output Damask millions of horses. However, in the 30 years of Guangxu (1904), Jiangning Weaving was abolished and the festival was endangered. It went through the three official historical periods of Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties and continued for more than 620 years. In 1912, after the founding of the Republic of China, the feudal regime was destroyed and Nanjing Jinjin lost its main clients. At the same time, due to the import of textiles such as high-quality and low-cost western woolen fabric and sergeys, as well as the turmoil in domestic politics and the poor sales, Nanjing Brocade industry showing a depression scene. Nanjing Brocade production fell to the lowest point in history. After the founding of New China, Nanjing Brocade received a freshman. In 1957, Nanjing Yun Brocade Institute was established, Nanjing Brocade embarked on the path of heritage protection and rejuvenation. Nanjing Yunjin artists in the fifteenth century to create cloud-flower makeup flower ring flower shop loom, until now, the modern machines are still unable to completely replace some of its unique technology, Brocade known as the Chinese brocade living fossil in ancient China Comprehensive Jacquard machine, the most complex, the most peculiar and most perfect is the Nanjing Yunjin artisans in the fifteenth century to create cloud-shaped flower garland large flower Lou looms. The weaving machine is 5.6 meters long, 1.4 meters wide and 4 meters high. It is produced by the cooperation of two people. With two people's tacit cooperation, we can only weave a few centimeters a day. Weaving, the building dragging workers to enhance the Warp, the equivalent of knocking the computer keyboard, downstairs weaving surface equivalent to the screen, weaving hands according to warp, makeup gold coating color. Nanjing Yunghshen Huahua Louhua weaving machine of this bunch of Jacquard weaving techniques from the Warring States to the Qin and Han dynasties, after several innovations, especially to gradually improve the Ming Dynasty, until modern times, has always been in a leading position. At the end of the eighteenth century, Europeans combined their predecessors' innovations with the invention of a simple and rational pattern-making jacquard machine. Modern silk weaving machines have been produced since then. However, modern machines can not completely replace the large flower-building Some of the loom weaving unique process, Brocade known as the Chinese brocade process live fossil. Nanjing Brocade weaving, dragging and weaving hands and singing, and eventually formed a folk art with local flavor varieties - Nanjing Bureau of white. These hand-written formulas and folk poetry and song art from various dynasties summed up the experience of thousands of years of artistes and demonstrated the vitality of Nanjing Yunjin, a traditional craft full of vigor and vitality. Pattern design has spread so far, pick the knot, there are hundreds of hand-weaving formulas. Another big feature of the flower makeup is "woven into." "Weaving" is a kind of finished woven form of traditional jacquard silk fabric and a kind of design method of traditional silk weaving pattern. It is the most difficult fabric for ancient brocade weaving technology. The emperor's robe is the use of "woven into the" form, a rare ancient and modern "weaving", which is based on the emperor's tall and fat and thin design, arrangement of patterns, according to collar, sleeves, lapel, before and after the body, knees, etc. Parts and their corresponding pattern for the entire design, from start to finish, different patterns, weaving is completed, and then cut stitching sewing clothes, truly "seamless." Cross-stitch, is China's Brocade production process in a key process and an important part of the flowers made of the flower knot is made from the draft pattern transition to the fabric on the bridge. Song Yingxing Ming Dynasty in his book, "Heavenly Creations · Nai Fu" articles, made an overview of the knot picking: "Where artisans knot flowers, the most clever calculation. Artist first painting what color on paper, the knot Silk with the painting with the degree of measurement, calculation of the composition suddenly formed, Zhang hanging over the flower floor, ... ... wearing the band with the size of the scale, filed Qu feet, after the shuttle, actually flowers now. "Yunjinhuahua Results of the method with the record is the same strain, the modern jacquard technology is also originated here. When Westerners marvel at Chinese silk fabrics shipped by the "Silk Road," China's brocade jacquard technology and grain-processing techniques have also been introduced into Europe along the way. Jacquard machine Jacquard machine was invented in the working principle of the jacquard machine of the Jacquard jacquard machine in Yunjinjin. The telegraph machine and the computer came out one after another. Mr. Gao Hanyu, a famous Chinese textile scientist, commented: China's textile technology, especially the Nanjing Yunjin knot knot, is the source of the modern electronic computing binary system and has a tremendous and far-reaching impact on the world's invention of science and technology. In May this year, the "China Nanjing Brocade Global Forum" was held at the United Nations Pavilion at Shanghai World Expo. The forum confirmed that the binary principle of "pick the flower knot" of Nanjing Brocade skill was the originator of modern computers. Nanjing Brocade has been inherited for more than 1500 years. The appearance of her brilliance is rich and profound traditional craftsmanship, shining with the light of Chinese civilization and becoming the classic of Chinese traditional weaving skills.

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