Deep and low-key men's fashion analysis 2013 autumn and winter men's fashion trends

When I just became a fashion writer, summing up a dressing trend was a very easy thing to do. This is largely because at that time, only one or two trends will only appear in the two fashion weeks of January and June of each year. For me and my peers, a tacit "conspiracy" passed from the designer to the manufacturer and then to the weaver, ensuring that all people are discussing the same color - cobalt blue, the same kind Cloth - thick, the same layout - thick coat. Of course, this is not as simple as I said; some of them will also go upstream. However, in the menswear industry, the consensus is obviously important. It's like the lubricant of a wheel, trying to wash away other things while driving the trend.

However, things are not always the same and everything is changing. In the past ten years, everything has become complicated. Retailers are also fashion editors and fashion bloggers have begun to play the role of fashion editors. All of us have become designers and connoisseurs. A large number of magazines, blogs, and photo sharing tools The introduction of social networks such as Instagram means that everyone has a platform for public opinions and followers. These changes have inspired more people to join the fashion world; they have succeeded in creating the trend of everything from men's skirts to yellow zippers.

Falling into the deep autumn men's clothing

Do you think I'm roaring? Actually not. Nowadays, men are enjoying the unprecedented comfort brought by clothing, which is obviously not a bad thing for business, but it has become a challenge for those who have come to the fashion trend. Fortunately, almost all the big names and designers this year turned their heads in unison - started a revolution and headed for a deeper direction. On the T stage, the big names are no longer clinging to the dazzling visual effects. They use simple colors and ordinary fabrics to remove unnecessary burdens and pay more attention to the design content itself.

Fortunately, this low-key aesthetic does not seem boring. In Valentino, designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli recreated the style of the 1960s, combining Savile Row, one of the world's top suits with hand-stitched sacred places, London's famous 1960s fashion jewellery for sale. The style of Carnaby Street and the London spy movie The Ipcress File. However, this is not entirely a nostalgic route. Instead, they switched to laser-cut dark leather or printed houndstooth fabrics to remake vintage windbreakers.

In men's shoes brand Berluti, creative director Alessandro Sartori showed a "great hurricane" in the design. A tailored three-piece suit with a long coat, a leather jacket, and a fedora, creates a thin and ostentatious style.

The Italian fashion brand Bottega Veneta has a central position in the contemporary luxury industry. This comes from the bold use of designer Tomas Maier for multiple colors and materials. This year's autumn and winter, his design has become more solemn - focus on the simple design, using a dark gray flannel flannel jacket. However, occasionally he will also include some personal luxury elements.

At Dolce & Gabbana, Sicily's best weekend wear is a black jacket with a white shirt, which is very different from the simple, refined yet relaxed style of Fellini.

The suit has always been the focus of the German men's clothing brand Hugo Boss. Dark colors, including fuchsia, brown and dark blue, make the country of England cut even more dignified. This is best reflected in the mauve red foldable turtleneck and the slacks used to match the smoky grey sports top.

However, of all these brands, only Hermès fully and comprehensively demonstrated this trend. Although this trend is characterized by solemnity and seriousness, it is not a completely "back-to-work" concept. Designer Véronique Nichanian changed the fabric to wool and cashmere based on the military coat and the sailor's double-breasted jacket. Navy blue and gray are particularly eye-catching in burgundy and dark green. This series is actually a model of casual wear, because in the pursuit of deep, they did not abandon the comfortable dressing experience and luxurious visual effects.

The creative director Italo Zucchelli created a series for Calvin Klein with both futuristic elements and modern minimalist cuts. Elegant design, a variety of fabrics, this season's CK series can be described as the banner of contemporary men's wear.

Even among the Italian brands Ermenegildo Zegna, Kiton, Canali and Brunello Cucinelli who used to express themselves as unrestrained characters, the use of brilliant colors is no longer popular. Brunello Cucinelli, known as the "King of Cashmere", introduced a plaid suit and a flannel jacket, all in grey. In addition to casual wear, dark blue, charcoal, burgundy, and dark green are everywhere. Kiton no longer emphasizes the eye-catching way of weaving. Instead, it focuses on the whole and uses blue and black on a large scale. Milan's clothing store, Canali, recreates the lightweight coats and military coats popular in the Edwardian era, with velvet velvet embellishments. Zegna continues to advance on the path of exploring fabrics. They added silk in all unexpected places. In addition, Spazzolino, a fabric made from blended alpacas and wool, combines innovation and luxury to become a landmark in this trend.

The "heresy" in the tide

Of course, this dim to near-dark style does not appear in all men's clothing. For those brands seeking innovation, they are still trying to find unique points in this trend. At Burberry, designer Christopher Bailey used distinctive materials and colors in winter fabrics made of textile fibers, such as cashmere and synthetic rubber trench coats, and surface-reflective blended cotton jackets.

Camel coats, bright knit sweaters, and the design of Miuccia Prada, Prada's global chief designer, seem to be casual. However, when you look closely, you will realize that every single product is a piece of puzzle, and it will eventually become a whole. Modern style wardrobe. Similarly, you can easily find new minimalism in the Italian brand Etro. In this brand, the printing, weaving techniques, and colors used in jackets and trousers can also be found in the same way.

So what happens when a brand new wave hits men's clothing? In my opinion, it may be a breathing space for designers to change their minds and refocus their attention on designing the content itself rather than manifesting it. This is certainly not a bad thing. Because, no matter how contemporary fashion will seduce us toward the direction of men's skirts, wearing pants is always a more comfortable thing, at least from a psychological point of view.